Artists and vendors and drummers (oh my!)

The weekend has been both relaxing and fun.

Friday night after dinner (we had rabbit!) I hung out with Alyssa (the other American who lives here) and some of her friends from Sarah Lawrence. Saturday, Alyssa and I went with one of her friends to an art festival that reminded me a bit of Art Fair in Ann Arbor. There were a lot of different vendors, exhibits and a free food tasting!

Spices

I stuck around longer than Alyssa and Amy (who had to get back to do homework), and on my walk back happened upon this incredible drum jam session. 25 drummers of all ages were lining the street right next to the Duomo and jamming. It was amazing. My favorite part about this experience was that I completely forgot I was in a foreign country and that I was American. There were people from all over surrounding these drummers and enjoying the music, yet there was no language barrier. Music is a language that everyone speaks and it was so powerful.

Drummers

I just looked it up "Sound of Noise Live" (which was written on the drumer's t-shirts) and apparently it was part of "La Notte Blu" (Blue Night)--a festival featuring music and performances that was taking place Friday and Saturday in the center.

Today I went to the photography museum in Piazza Santa Maria Novella. It was a really well-done museum that outlined the history and development of the camera and photograph. I had the best gelato yet (two flavors in a cone: sweet wine and mint) from this place called Carapina. YUM. I accidentally ordered another gross coffee. I really need to learn how to just get a coffee over ice. At least it wasn't 5 euro this time.

I am glad to be well rested and excited for another action-packed week of cooking!

Lesson of the weekend: Americans love Irish pubs.

Photo of the weekend:

The youngest drummer

The Count

Glasses of wine drinken: 22

Owl jewelry purchased: 1 pair of earrings!

Gelatos eaten: 4

-->Flavors tried: 13

Photos taken: 978

Tomorrow: more pasta!

Fantastico

My day could've ended at 1:00 and I would've been perfectly happy.

Today I made quite possibly one of the best things I've ever eaten: Vitellina Fricta (Fried Veal). The sauce was incredible. But really...to die for.

Today was meat:

• Pullus Fusilis, two ways (Chicken with Liquid Filling--Ancient Roman Recipe and Marcella's variation)
  -The Ancient Roman recipe of Pullus Fusilis is actually not a liquid filling at all, so Marcella changed it to fit the title better.
• Abbacchio Alla Romana (Baby Lamb, Roman Style)
• Vitellina Fricta (Fried Veal)
  -The veal itself wasn't even the best part of this dish. I'm telling you, the sauce...AH. The best part is that it was so simple--raisins, honey, wine, reduced balsamic vinegar ("Sapa"), cumin, oregano and other spices. AHH. By the end of lunch I was just eating sauce by the spoonful :)

I de-boned, stuffed and sewed up the chicken which was actually kind of fun.

I thought the lamb was going to be my favorite (because lamb is my favorite meat), but the sauce for the lamb had a lot of rosemary in it (my least favorite spice), so I didn't like it as much as I had anticipated. The veal was unreal. Well, the sauce was. I am definitely going to use it on a brisket when I get home so friends and family--get ready.

Today I also learned how to make bechamel, another basic foundation that can be used in many dishes such as flan, lasagna or moussaka. We used a thick bechamel as the basis for a zucchini souffle that we ate with the Pullus Fusilis (Marcella's version).

Zucchini Souffles

Pullus Fusilis, Marcella's version

Pullus Fusilis, Ancient Roman Recipe

Abbacchio alla Romana

Vitellina Fricta

After class I walked along the river and re-energized at a cafe near the Uffizi. And by re-energized I mean I paid 5 euro for a stomach ache (in the form of a disgustingly sweet "caffe freddo," which was more like a Starbucks CRAPpuccino (frappuccino?) than anything I would call an iced coffee--I just wanted coffee over ice...and then it was 5 euro! WHAT? Gross.)

I visited Cappelle Medicee -- lots of artifacts (Pope Leo X's staff), sarcophagi, a huge marble and granite room intended to be the Medici family mausoleum, but never completed and various unfinished Michaelangelo sculptures (like most of them are). There was a tour from Canada in the last room with most of the Michaelangelo pieces, so I got to learn a bit, too :).

Then I walked through the San Lorenzo market and looked at some leather and jewelry. It's nice being here so long because it gives me time to shop around a lot before buying anything :).

So far today has been a great success: I ate the best thing I've ever eaten (let alone made!), and I didn't get any tomatoes thrown at me! ... yet :)

Lesson of the Day: The Duomo is everywhere. Every corner I turn leads to the Duomo. Seriously.

Photo of the Day:

Unfortunately, there were no photos allowed in The Medici Chapel so in terms of high(er) quality photos, today there is only food photography. I got a bit lazy when walking around today and only took a few photos on my phone. So, while only taken with my Nexus One, I still think this is "photo of the day"-worthy; no caption necessary, this one speaks for itself...

The Count

Glasses of wine drinken: 17

Owl jewelry tried on: 5 necklaces and 7 pairs of earrings

Photos taken: 717

How is it that I've only been in Florence for one week?

How is it that I've already been in Florence for one week?

I have already done so much and there is still so much more to both do and learn.

Marcella commented today that my eyes were sparkling (this was while eating the veal, mind you).

My response?

The only possible response--I am just so happy.

This first week has been incredible. I spent the week learning the basics and foundations of Italian cooking; similarly, this week is just the foundation of my time here in Florence and of this wonderful European adventure!

Tomorrow:

La mostra dell'Artiganto, arte del fare (The Handicrafts Trade Fair, the art of making) -- big art festival in Fortezza de Basso. Going with the other American student who I live with!

Photography museum? Although may save this for Sunday, not sure.

Feed the birds, toppins a pomodoro

Today:

Fish!

• Today I scaled, gutted, filleted and ate a fish! FUN!...and SO FRESH...Marcella went to the market this morning and bought salmon, swordfish and sea bream. Wow, fresh fish is incredible.
• We did three different fish in three different ways--one raw, one steamed and one seared..all delicious!
• The best thing today was the celery souffle...like nothing I'd ever had before!
  -For starters, I've never made a souffle, let alone a savory one
  -It was incredible. It was so light, airy and fluffy...yet it had the taste of celery
  
• We spent some time talking about taste, flavor and perception which I really enjoyed
• Dishes:

Marinated Salmon and Celery Souffle

Pesce Spada agli Agrumi (Swordfish Rolls with Citrus Sauce)

Orata ai Carciofi (Sea Bream with Artichokes)

Museo Salvatore Ferragamo

• The best part was the technology, there wasn't really much about shoes--just a lot of name dropping of people I don't know...I guess I'm not that big into fashion
  -"Concerto with four hands--piano and shoemaker," comparing the art of craftsmanship to playing the piano. Video showing a stage with a pianist playing a concerto and a shoemaker making a shoe.
  -lots of touch screen displays where you could rotate, drag and zoom photos, info cards, etc. (dad, you would've loved this)
  

Museo Nazionale Alinari della Fotografia

• Could've sworn online it said it was open 9-1 and then 4-9 so I came home after class to read/nap before starting into the city center and doing the tourist thing. Went to the shoe museum first, followed by a gelato on the Ponte Santa Trinita, then ventured to the photography museum at 5:30, only to find out they close at 6:30...awesome. So I'll go back this weekend (they have discount student tickets on Saturday and Sunday anyways, so I guess that's okay)

Wandering

• Spent the rest of the afternoon/evening window shopping and finding new piazzas and buildings I hadn't seen yet.

Peeing lego dog

Photos of the Day:

I saw this woman and immediately thought of (my least favorite scene in) Mary Poppins ("feed the birds..."). Naturally, I crouched down to take a photo which spurred screams from her and the surrounding people. Right as I took this photo, the old bird lady was winding up, and seconds later a tomato (pomodoro) was flying towards me. Needless to say, I stood up quickly and got out of there. Hilarious.

Feed the birds, toppins a pomodoro

Thankfully my time here as so far been filled with both wine and sunshine :)

My philosophy on life

Lesson of the day:

Double check museum times? Be confused by the fact that a museum would be open from 4-9pm...

The Count

Glasses of wine drinken: 13

Gelatos eaten: 3

-->Flavors tried:11

Pomodori thrown at me: 1

Pasta dishes eaten: 10

Photos taken: 688

Tomorow:

veal, chicken and lamb :)

Medici chapel?

Museo Galileo?

keeping my options open...

Italian cooking isn't about complication, it's about combination

Today:

1. Class--one soup (using broth from yesterday), three stuffed pastas and 1 variety dish:

• Stracciatella (Italian egg-drop soup)
• Tortellini in Brodo (Tortellini in Broth)
• Ravioli al Consomme' with Chili Pea Sauce and Tomato Skin (Raviloli stuffed with consomme')
• Ravioli Ripieni di Carciofi con Salsa al Pecorino e timo (Artichoke filled ravioli with a Pecorino cheese and Thyme sauce)
• Artichoke heart with beef and two tomato sauces

Stracciatella

Tortellini, handmade from scratch

Ravioli al Consomme' with Chili Pea Sauce and Tomato Skin

Artichoke ravioli, handmade from scratch

Artichoke heart with beef and two tomato sauces

2. Great Synagogue
-Visited the only synagogue in Florence. Arrived at just the right time to hear the presentation in English and visited the "museum" which had "Jewish artifacts"--Torah scrolls, siddurim, ktubah's, etc. Unfortunately, no cameras allowed inside but it was huge and beautiful. They still hold services there daily, for Shabbat and holidays, but the Jewish community in Florence is only about 900 people so they are fairly small. It is a sphardic synogogue (customs descendant from Spain); I will likely try to go one Shabbat just for the experience. It was really nice to have some Judaism in my life today...I needed some balance amidst all the non-kosher food and church visits.

Tempio Maggiore Israelitico di Firenze

3. Santa Maria Novella

-Church, famous artwork and tombs

4.Garden

-Came home and read in the garden hammock with the turtles! :) (yes, they have two turtles)

Photo of the day:

Walked by this today...

pretty much a giant arrangement of saran wrap and

called art...

"Tape Florence" at Palazzo Strozzi

Lesson of the day: If you don't want to pay €0.60 to use the public restroom...only have €0.42 in your wallet.

The Count

Glasses of wine drinken: 11

Pasta dishes eaten: 8.5

Churches toured: 3 + 1 synagogue

Photos taken: 619

I wish I had a pedometer.

Tomorrow:

• Fish
• Photography Museum
• Shoe Museum

Barriere Linguistiche

Yesterday:

• took a walk North of the house for the first time
• dinner with the family

I love family dinners; they are one of the main comforts I miss most when away at school. So being in Italian family is really wonderful. Plus it is the perfect way to be completely immersed in Italian language and food. Seeing the dynamic of my host family is so fun: Andrea and Gali argue and pick on each other consistently, and Manuela is such a jewish mother--always serving more food! Last night Andrea was making fun of Gali's facebook photos he takes of himself and Gali retaliated by passing around embarrassing photos of Andrea taken on his iPhone.

After dinner I sat around talking with Manuela and Alyssa (the other American student living here) and looking through the book from my class.

Today:

• Class

There was another woman in the class today from Perth, Australia. We learned the four water-based foundations: broth, bisque, stock and quick stock, as well as the two different types of tomato sauce: velvety and fried.
We made 4 dishes and 2 sauces that we tasted on bread (photos above titles):

Gamberi al vapore in Salsa di Gamberi

(Steamed shrimp with shrimp sauce)

Minestra di Gafioli Borlotti
(Red Bean Soup with Taglierini)

Risotto al Gamberi

(Risotto with shrimp)

Chicken soup with Croutons
(where are the matzo balls?)

Velvety Tomato Sauce and Fried Tomato Sauce

We also made another broth that will be used tomorrow for our ravioli!

• Vodaphone

Definitely the most hilarious 30 minutes of my day. I went to the phone store (vodaphone) to add data to my phone so I can use google maps, etc. when wandering around the city. The last time I went to this store, the clerk spoke English...this time, not so fortunate...or maybe more fortunate because we had no idea what the other was saying and it was hysterical. Luckily I had a wireless connection in the store and apps are awesome. I was able to use both Google Translator (type in one language, get text in another language) and "Communicate" (an app my friend, Andrew, designed in one of his classes in which the user speaks in one language, and the program returns both text and speech in another). Even so, there was quite a bit of struggling. Communicate had trouble translating his Italian back to English ... come on Andrew! ... and the questions I was trying to ask had about a 60% success rate in both Google and Andrew's app.

Moral of the story: language barriers are hilarious; technology is amazing, and at the end of the day...I think I got all the phone stuff figured out... I wanted to put a 5 Euro calling/texting credit on it, and then pay 3 Euro for a weeks worth of data...but he only made me pay 5 Euro...a 2 Euro call/text credit and 3 Euro for data. By this point, I gave up. I'll just add more calling/texting when I need it. Throughout the entire encounter we were both cracking up and when we had finally finished the "conversation" and transaction, he let out a big sigh and started fanning himself off. Made my day.

• Wandering

Went to the city center, intending on visiting Gallerie de l'Academia and The Uffizi Gallery. I was pretty exhausted though so I just wandered around, sat in the Piazza della Repubblica and Piazza della Signoria, then walked over to The Uffizi. It was nice to see places and streets I hadn't explored yet. The line was long at the Uffizi though, and I was impatient so I continued walking and happened upon the Piazza di Santa Croce (again). Seeing no line at the Basilica di Santa Croce, I went inside.

• Inside the Basilica di Santa Croce

Church, garden, opera house.

• Gelato at RivaReno Gelateria

Gelato time! White chocolate with rice krispies and hazelnut and almond with amaretto.

Note to self: I prefer fruity gelato.

Got poured on walking home.

I am exhausted and my feet may fall off.

Lesson of the Day: To get the most flavorful risotto, cook it in a broth of sorts--don't just cover it in a sauce. Whatever liquid you cook it in, the rice will absorb: if you just cook it in water, you add no flavor...use a broth, and not the cubes!

Photo(s) of the day:

Happy Camper(s)

To see all my (completely raw) photos, visit: https://picasaweb.google.com/europeanbanana2011

The Count

Glasses of wine drinken: 9

Pasta dishes eaten: 5.5

Churches toured: 2

Gelatos eaten: 2

-->Flavors tried: 7

Photos taken: 560

Educere: to draw from within

It is currently thunderstorming like crazy and I have already had an amazing morning... so I decided to blog a bit now.

Today: First day of School!

OH.MY.GOSH. AMAZING.

For starters, I am the only student. So for the next month I will be getting 3 hours of one-on-one instruction every day with Marcella, the chef.

We started off with a tour of the studio (Marcella loves orange!),

the kitchen/studio

Then, we had a mini-lesson about the history and science of pasta, made the pasta dough, and let it sit while making the sauces.

kneading the dough

We made 3 different sauces:

• ragu' alla bolognese (bolognese meat sauce)
• calamaretti e rucola (baby calimari and arugula)
• gamberi and zuchinni (zucchini and shrimp sauce)

I learned the technique for and practiced chopping vegetables, as well as prepped the shrimp and calamari. This involved shelling and removing the intestine of the shrimp, and gutting the calamari. For the calamari, I was supposed to squeeze the eyes and pull it's head away from the tentacles, but I made her do this because eyes are creepy.

grinding tomatoes for ragu

calamari: pre gutting, etc.

shrimp in olive oil, shallot and parsley

Then we went back to the pasta and did four different types, formed from different cutting and folding techniques:

• Garganelli
  
• Orechiette Emiliane
• Sfrappole
• Tagiolini

me with rolled out pasta!

top left: taglierne, bottom left: sfrappole,
now from left to right: garganelli, orechiette emiliane, tagliolini

We then cooked the pastas one by one and added their respective sauces, pausing to eat at a very nicely set table, and talking in between.

The final dishes:

1. Tagiolini with butter and nutmeg
2. Calamaretti e Rucola (with Sfrappole)
3. Gemberi and Zucchini (with Garganelli)
4. Ragu' alla Bolognese (with Orechiette Emiliane)

Calamaretti e Rucola (with Sfrappole)

There was one more dish on the list for today, but with only two people there wasn't enough time...which was really okay because we were both STUFFED by the end :)

So I managed to eat pork, calamari and squid all in one day...

As part of the course I have a book with recipes, history and general information that I will definitely keep forever. Marcella says that this first week will focus on the basics: pastas, chopping, sauces, etc., and over time she will let me be free and add my own inspirations...hence today's blog post title. When explaining the "structure" of the class (as I did above) Marcella emphasized that education, as seen in the root of the word, is about pulling out of the student, not stuffing information in. I really like this teaching philosophy and am very excited to be studying and cooking with such a talented chef and fun person for the next month!

I hope it will stop raining soon so I can venture into the city. I had planned on going to an outdoor art fair today, but I think I will wait until better weather.

Photo of the Day
not actually worthy of being the photo of the day...especially because the day is not over, but it's so orange... I couldn't resist.

orange!

The Count

Pasta dishes eaten: 5

Glasses of wine drinken: 7

Photos taken: 454

For those concerned about the fact that I am drinking wine (dad): When I arrived to Italy on Friday, it was my pseudo 21st birthday. The drinking age here is 16; They drink wine like water.

Tomorrow:

Lesson 2--Sauces and Stocks

hopefully making it to the art fair

maybe visiting a church or the Uffizi Gallery

Question of the day: are these posts too long? (leave your answer in a comment!)

Ciao!

Novantadue

Today:

• Gusta Pizza
  -everyone talked about this pizza place so I had to try it. After wandering around searching for over an hour (3G wasn't yet activated on my phone and I does anyone know how to use a real map anymore?), I found it and enjoyed it.
  -I was number 92, hence the title of this post.
  -Gusta is located on the other side of the river. This was the first time I had been over there and I really liked it! Definitely a different feel from the city center...more open.
  -I had intended on walking over the Ponte Vecchio but got antsy and went a bridge too early...another time!
• Pitti Palace and Boboli Gardens
  -another "holy crap" moment. Turned the corner after having bought my pizza and there was the Pitti Palace--HUGE, and beautiful
  
Inside the Pitti Palace


-had an amazing cafe fredde in the cafe before going to the gardens and exploring. when I say amazing, I mean the best iced coffee I've ever had.

-Boboli gardens are amazing--I spent hours just walking around. My camera is definitely my best friend here :) Beautiful views, landscapes, everything

statues in the gardens

-Visited the Costume Gallery in the Palace...so cool...just a display of fashion over time. No photos were allowed :( but it was really amazing.
-Dad has taught me well, made 3 trips to the bathroom during my visit.

Home, sweet home


• Piazella Michelangelo
  -such a hike but totally worth it
  -camera died a few minutes after being at the top

view from the top

-I will go back, I want to go at sunset anyways.

Lesson of the day: What goes down, must come back up. (The gardens are SO hilly!)

Photo of the day:

Gusta Pizza... they were loving the camera

The Count

(these will likely get disgustingly high over the next few months; I will likely stop keeping them once they do.)

• Pizza slices eaten: 3
• Glasses of wine drinken: 5
• Gelatos eaten: 1
• Photos taken: 417

Tomorrow: FIRST DAY OF SCHOOL!